Big Bend National Park With Kids: All The Tips!

We just got back from a long weekend at Big Bend National Park. It was unusually cold for this time of year on the days we went. However, we still managed to get out and explore a lot of the park. Here are all my tips for going to Big Bend National Park with kids.

Big Bend National Park With Kids

Chisos Mountains Lodge Motel Rooms

There are so many options for lodging at Big Bend. However, there’s only one choice if you want to stay right inside the park itself (not camping). Many people choose to stay in neighboring towns like Terlingua. I wanted to stay right inside the park (but not camp), so I booked us at the Chisos Mountains Lodge. Our room was called a Rio Grande Motel Room. It had 2 double beds and we got a rollaway bed as well. The room was very crowded. The Roosevelt Stone Cottages would have probably been a better option for us since there were 5 of us. There are several options if you want to stay at the Chisos Lodge.

Pros

We were right next to the dining room and could just walk over there for dinner each night. Breakfast and lunch were eaten in our room or in our car driving to our destinations. Additionally, we were walking distance to several great hikes like the Window Trail and Chisos Basin Loop Trail. It’s also a very short (3 minute) drive to the Lost Mine Trail. We were right by the little store that sells necessities and supplies should you need some medicine or ice cream.

Cons

The cons were that we only had hot water in the shower on the first night. The other 3 nights the shower water was ice cold. In addition, there isn’t housekeeping for the motel rooms. You won’t be getting your room cleaned or fresh sheets/towels each day (unless you go to the front desk and ask for some).

What to bring

Definitely bring your own electric tea kettle. We used this to make so many things! We brought our own coffee, tea, hot chocolate, and ramen cups that all used hot water. There is a microwave that you could use to make the hot water, or warm up a frozen burrito. The Lodge’s dining room restaurant charges $26 for 7 raviolis. Consider bringing some frozen foods you can microwave in your room to save money. The mini fridge in the room had a small freezer space so you can keep the food frozen.

Make sure you bring enough gallon water jugs for one gallon per person a day, plus a little extra. It was an unusually cold weekend when we went, so we didn’t need as much water. But most days it will be HOT and if you plan on hiking, you’ll get dehydrated fast.

We didn’t have a tv in the room, so make sure you bring plenty of books, activities, games, etc. There is no wifi except right inside the front desk/dining room/lodge gift shop, so don’t get your hopes up for having any internet at all.

Big Bend National Park With Kids

Hiking Gear

For this trip, it is especially crucial to remember to bring enough water while you are out on hikes. We bought these water packs for our big boys and this one for our 4 year old. This is the hiking backpack we use, and here is the water bladder we got to go inside it. We also always bring the following items with us on every hike:

• poison ivy wash
• first aid kit
• After Bite
• packable blanket
• a super absorbent blanket that folds up small to use as a towel
• sunscreen
• bug spray
• hand sanitizer or wipes
• snack bags for each of the kids
• a special reward treat for when you get to your destination

We also brought good hiking boots. These are the ones I wear, and I got this pair for my 4 year old. My 10 year old wore these. My husband and 13 year old just wore their New Balance and were fine. When we go on water hikes, I always wear Chacos. My husband and kids wear Keens.

It was super cold while we were there, and we love these beanies for cold weather. My kids also liked having these headlamp beanies for when we went out to look at the stars at night. Or just bring flashlights (these are our favorites), because it’s extremely dark out there! These packable puffers are great if you go to BBNP when it’s a little chilly (kid version). They pack up inside their own bags so you can throw them in a backpack if you get too hot.

Hiking Tips

The chances of you encountering a mountain lion or a bear are low. However, it’s always a good idea to keep the kids close by. If a mountain lion see a small child running ahead of their parents, they will charge faster than you think.

Pack some kind of special reward treat for your kids. Give it to them when you reach your hiking destination. It should be a fun treat that you normally don’t allow them to have (for us it’s Gushers). They know they have to keep going to get their reward. The sugar gives them a little boost of energy for the trek back.

Many of the hikes are long and steep, so a hiking backpack for toddlers is a great idea. We were lucky enough to have 2 older and willing brothers to help us carry our 4 year old when he got too tired to walk. We all took turns with him on our shoulders and him walking some. The 3 main hikes we did were all around 2 miles each.

Big Bend National Park With Kids

Santa Elena Canyon Trail

We tried to hike the Window Trail on our first day since it was right by our motel room. It ended up being so cold and rainy that afternoon that we turned around after about 20 minutes. So the first hike we did all the way through was the Santa Elena Canyon Trail. It was about a 45 minute drive from our motel. The entire hike was a little under 2 miles and it took us about 2 hours total. We had a picnic at the end which took a while. On warmer days, you can cross the river to get to the trailhead. We had to climb up the mountain to get to it since it was so cold the day we went. It was a little tricky to do with our 4 year old, but still doable. This hike was my favorite hike of the trip. I would love to go back and do this hike on a warmer day when you can wade into the river and get a cool picture.

Grapevine Hills Trail to Balanced Rock

Let’s start this off by saying 2 words: GRAVEL ROAD! There is a long unpaved gravel road that is insanely bumpy that gets you out to the Grapevine Hills Trailhead. In a minivan or small car, you have to go about 6 miles at 5 miles/hour. It’s so bad, in fact, that the National Park website tells you not to even attempt it in a car, minivan, or RV! It’s very slow and not very fun. But! Once you get to the trailhead, it’s very pleasant hike that leads to the Balanced Rock. The Grapevine Hills Trail is a little over 2 miles round trip. It is mostly flat almost all the way there. The end is a rocky steep climb up to the Balanced Rock. The views from the top are incredible. Don’t forget to have someone take your picture and make it look like you are holding the rock up with your hands. I’m very glad we still attempted this trail, in spite of not having a sturdy high clearance vehicle. Just remember to go very slowly along the gravel road.

Chisos Basin Loop Trail

We did this 1.3 mile loop trail because it was right outside of our motel. We really wanted to do the Lost Mine Trail (super high up on everyone’s recommended hikes lists). By the time we got there (9:30 a.m.), the parking lot was already full! We were there on the second busiest week of the year (Thanksgiving week), so most of the trailhead parking lots filled up fast. The Basin Loop Trail was very pleasant. It had some elevation and some pretty views. I wouldn’t go out of my way to do it, but it was super close to our motel and a good runner up to not being able to do Lost Mine Trail.

Hot Springs

We were told the road to the hot springs was closed because it had washed out, but it turns out plenty of people still attempted to go while we were there. We never tried, but it’s something I’d like to go back and do someday.

Boquillas, Mexico

We brought our passports and went across the border to Boquillas, Mexico! It was a fun little day trip, which took under 4 hours (including drive time). It was about a 45 minute drive from the Chisos Mountains Lodge. Keep in mind they are only open Wednesday through Sunday from 9 a.m. – 4 p.m. (subject to change, so check before you go).

You must show your passports when you get to the border crossing station. Then we took a little rowboat across the Rio Grande, which was only $5 round trip. You can cross on foot if the water level is low enough. When you get across, you can walk to the town (about a half mile), or ride a donkey. We chose the donkeys of course. The kids loved this part! They were $5 each. You could also get a ride on a horse or in the back of a pickup truck.

You will have to check in with immigration officials and get a wristband when you get to the town. Right across the dirt road is the town’s only restaurant. Well, there’s a smaller one that only sells 3 dishes, so we ate at the bigger one. Inside the restaurant there’s a little store (and there are one or two other tiny stores next door to this). All said and done, the entire trip took us 2 hours from border to border and back. Plus a 45 minute drive each way, so under 4 hours total. You could choose to stay longer, but the town is so small. There’s not really a whole lot to do there. It’s still a cool experience for the kids though!

What to bring: passports, cash in small bills, your own water to drink.

Big Bend National Park With Kids

Big Bend River Boat Tours

We wanted a river experience while at Big Bend. We booked a river rafting tour through Big Bend River Tours. They were a great choice! They shuttle you out to Big Bend State Park in vans. You have a tour guide to paddle your raft the entire time (about 2.5 hours). It was fun to see another area outside of the national park. It’s about a 45 minute drive to get there, so plan on being gone for close to 4 hours total. They take you down the Rio Grande on a big raft. We even got to touch the Mexico side. They provide water refills and life vests. Make sure you bring your own water bottles. And of course, lots and lots of snacks. Like, more than you think you’ll need. It gets chilly in the shade of the mountains. So, even if it’s a warm, sunny day, you could get cold in the shade. Don’t forget to tip your tour guide! They are all so knowledgeable and fun!

Some final tips

Everything is a bit of a drive, depending on where you stay and what you do. Plan on doing several 45 minute drives per day. The park is massive. If you have a big truck or 4 wheel drive vehicle, bring it. Many roads are unpaved and very bumpy. Bring more food and water than you think you’ll need. It’s very remote and you probably won’t find everything you need (or will overpay for it). Gas up every chance you get because you never know when you’ll see another gas station. Don’t forget your passports if you want to go to Mexico. Our favorite place to get passports is hands down the Passport office on UT campus.

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